Saffron-Scented Aubergine Stew in the Persian Manner

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Mehregan Mubarik! Today, along with thirty other Persian food bloggers, we are celebrating Jashn-e-Mehregan – the ancient Persian festival to celebrate the Autumn Equinox. Historically, in ancient Persia, this festival was an occasion to honour the god of justice – Mehr – and to give thanks for the end of the harvest season.

The first thing I think about when the leaves turn ruby-red and my shawls come out of the hidden part of my closet, is a hearty tomato-spiced stew. Now that the days are shorter and we are beginning to spend more time indoors, the scent of saffron, mingling with tomatoes and cumin, bubbling away on the burner, seems to be the best way to spend a night in. Aubergine, with its glorious shades of violet is in season right now and one of my favourite ways of preparing it is to incorporate it into a khoresht; a stew. With its jammy tomato base, all you need to have with this Khoresht-e-Badejmaan is a tahdig – saffron-crusted basmati rice – and creamy strained yoghurt. It seems to be the best way to start a new season and to give thanks for all that we have.

Speaking of giving thanks – I recently became a Canadian citizen and I couldn’t be prouder to be a part of this country – a country which this Pakistani-Persian-Afghan nomad now calls home.

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Before you get to my recipe below, I hope you enjoy reading all the beautiful dishes my fellow Persian food bloggers have put together for Mehregan.

Ahu Eats: Badoom Sookhte Torsh | Sour Caramelized Almonds
All Kinds of Yum: Jeweled Carrot Salad
Bottom of the Pot: Broccoli Koo Koo (Frittata)
Cafe Leilee: Northern Iranian Pomegranate Garlic and Chicken Stew
Coco in the Kitchen: Zeytoon Parvardeh  | Marinated Olives with Pomegranate & Walnuts
Della Cucina Povera: Ghormeh Sabzi | Persian Lamb & Herb Stew
Fae’s Twist & Tango: Rice Meatballs | Kufteh Berenji
Family Spice: Khoreshteh Kadoo | Butternut Squash Stew
Fig & Quince: Festive Persian Noodle Rice & Roasted Chicken Stuffed with Yummies for Mehregan
Honest and Tasty: Loobia Polo | Beef and Green Bean Rice
Lab Noon: Adas Polo Risotto | Persian Lentils Risotto
Lucid Food: Sambuseh
My Caldron: Anaar-Daneh Mosamma | Pomegranate Stew
My Persian Kitchen: Keshmesh Polow | Persian Raisin Rice
Noghlemey: Parsi Dal Rice Pie
Parisa’s Kitchen: Morasa Polow | Jeweled Rice
Sabzi: Ash-e Mast (Yogurt soup with meatballs)
The Saffron Tales: Khorosht-e Gheimeh | Yellow Lentils Stew
Simi’s Kitchen: Lita Turshisi | Torshi-e Liteh | Tangy aubergine pickle
Spice Spoon: Khoresht-e-bademjaan | Saffron-Scented Aubergine Stew
Turmeric & Saffron: Ash-a Haft Daneh | Seven Bean Soup
The Unmanly Chef: Baghali Polow ba Mahicheh | Rice with Fave Beans and Lamb
ZoZoBaking: Masghati | Persian Scented Starch Fudge

Recipe notes:
• I like this stew with a thick, reduced sauce, if you prefer your stew to be more fluid, with abundant sauce, simply add more water when you add the aubergine in the end.
• Always adjust for salt, because it really depends on your taste as well as the type of salt you are using.
• I prefer chicken with bone because it makes the sauce more flavourful. You can use boneless chicken thighs, too, just remember to decrease the weight to about 700g.
• Feel free to adjust for black and cayenne pepper, as per your preference.
• If you don’t want to broil the aubergine, feel free to gently sauté the flesh side of it in oil, till it is bronzed. I do often use this method, but you have to be quick, because aubergine sucks up a lot of oil when it is sautéed or fried.

Ingredients:
*2-3 tbsp olive oil
*125g finely chopped onions (approximately ½ a large onion)
*1 kg chicken thighs (weight with bone)
*2 garlic cloves, minced
*½ tsp turmeric powder
*¼ tsp black pepper
*Pinch cayenne pepper
*¼ tsp cumin powder
*½ + ½ tsp salt
*1 tsp saffron threads, crushed into powder in a pestle and mortar, dissolved with two tablespoons of water
*300g chopped tomatoes, including juices (blanched and skin removed)
*2 tbsp water
*Neutral oil for frying
*350-400g baby aubergine quartered (the slices should be approximately 8-10cm long and 2cm thick)**
*juice of one lime
*1 tsp rose water (optional)***
*8-12 cherry tomatoes

Preparation:
*Place a wide  heavy-bottomed pan, which has a lid, (the one I use is 30cm in diameter)on the stove on medium heat and add oil. Add onions and sauté for ten minutes, till they become slightly golden, but not brown.

*Turn heat to medium-high and add garlic, chicken, turmeric, black pepper, cayenne pepper, cumin, ½ teaspoon salt, saffron water and sauté for five minutes, till the spices are fragrant and the chicken has lost its raw pink colour.

*Add tomatoes, sprinkle with two tablespoons of water, lower the heat to medium and cover the pan for twenty minutes. (If you feel the tomatoes are sticking to the bottom of the pan, add a few more tablespoons of water and lower the heat a bit more.)

*In the meantime, brush the flesh side only of your aubergine with a neutral oil (don’t use olive oil, as it has a low smoking point) and transfer to a baking sheet. Place directly under your broiler (skin side down) and allow the flesh to turn bronze. This will take between five-ten minutes. Keep a vigilant eye on them, they can burn easily.

*Transfer aubergine to the pan at the 20-minute mark, (once the chicken has tenderised), skin side down, and sprinkle with the remaining salt, rosewater and lime juice. If the tomato sauce looks like it has reduced significantly, add more of water. Cover with lid and allow to cook for 25-35 minutes, or till the aubergine is fork tender but still holds its shape.

*When the stew is still hot, before serving, dot the stew with cherry tomatoes, cover with lid and wait till the skin of the tomatoes wilts a bit (five minutes). It adds an extra pop to the dish.

*Serve with your favourite fresh herbs strewn on top, tahdig (saffron-crusted rice) and strained yoghurt.

**You can use any aubergine of your choice, just remember to keep the chopped dimensions in mind.

***Rosewater can be found in Middle Eastern or Pakistani/Indian grocery stores.

Kofta Curry in the Pakistani Manner

Pakistani Kofta Curry

I was commissioned to write a piece for Edible Toronto – I chose to write about a recipe I grew up eating, my Nani Ami’s spiced meatball curry, also known as Kofta Curry. This is a comforting Pakistani dish made in almost every home. My article is about how my parents entertained throughout my childhood: elegantly, with seemingly effortless perfection. And today, in my home, I wonder if I can do the same.

I hope you enjoy reading the piece I wrote here.

Kofta Curry

Makes 4 servings

For the meatballs:

1/2 cup unsalted roasted chickpeas (found in Pakistani or Indian grocery stores)* or 1/4 cup chickpea flour

1/2 medium onion

1 1-inch length ginger, peeled and cut into 4 pieces

1 egg, lightly beaten

1/2 tsp sea salt, plus more if needed

1/4 tsp ground cayenne, plus more if needed

20 black peppercorns

1 lb medium ground beef (not lean, as it will prevent the meatballs from binding)

For the tomato yoghurt sauce:

3 tbsp grapeseed oil or other neutral oil

1/2 medium onion, chopped

1/2 tsp ground cumin

1/4 tsp ground cayenne

1/4 tsp smoked paprika (hot or sweet)

1/4 tsp ground turmeric

1 small can (about 14 oz/398mL) crushed tomatoes

2 cups water

1/2 cup full-fat Greek yoghurt (non-fat yoghurt tends to curdle when cooked)

1/2 tsp sea salt, plus more if needed

Kettle of boiling water

1 bunch fresh tarragon, cilantro or other herb of your choice

Make the meatballs: In a mortar and pestle, grind the chickpeas, in batches, to a fine powder (or use chickpea flour); set aside.

In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the onion half and the ginger until a paste is formed. In a medium bowl, whisk together the onion and ginger paste, chickpea powder, egg, salt, cayenne, and the peppercorns. Do a taste test of the seasonings by frying a teaspoon of the mixture with a bit of oil in a frying pan. Add more salt and cayenne pepper, as needed.

Pinch off a piece of the ground beef mixture and gently roll it in the palm of your hand to form a ball measuring about 1½-inches in diameter. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining meat mixture. You will end up with approximately 21 meatballs. Cover the meatballs with a clean tea towel and refrigerate while you make the tomato yoghurt sauce.

Make the sauce: In a small stockpot or large heavy saucepan over medium heat, add the oil. Add the onion, stirring occasionally until it begins to turn golden, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the cumin, cayenne, smoked paprika and turmeric. Cook, stirring frequently until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and increase the heat to medium-high (be careful, as the mixture will sputter). Stir vigorously for 2 minutes. Stir in the water, remove the pot from the stove, and allow to cool slightly.

Transfer the tomato sauce to a blender. Blend until smooth. Return the sauce to the pot. Add the yoghurt and salt, stirring until well combined. Gently place the meatballs into the pot, leaving some space between each meatball. Add enough boiling water from the kettle to just cover the meatballs. Bring to a low boil, reduce the heat, cover the pot, and simmer for 25 minutes. Gently turn over each meatball. Replace the lid and simmer for 20 more minutes. Taste and add salt, as needed. Sprinkle with lots of fresh tarragon or your favourite herb and serve alongside basmati rice or bread.

Egg Curry in the Pakistani Manner

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I just got back home to Toronto, after spending a week with my family in Washington, DC. It is 6am and I am spooning coffee grinds into my moka to make a caffé latte. At this time, I know that my father is awake already and sitting in his solarium, his putty-coloured cashmere shawl covering his legs while he eats his morning porridge, adorned with a lazy trail of maple syrup and dried apricots. Read More